Sewing Level: Advanced
Fabric: wool melton, flannel interlining, traditional lining
I made size and View (if applicable): Size 18 with increased waist and hip, View B with Hood
Description: Zippered, lined and toggled! Essential coat for the cold winter. Check out the hashtag (#CascadeDuffleCoat) for some great inspiration!
Click the images below for videos:
This is a big coat! With a lot of pieces. But the sewing steps are simple. If you're using fabrics that will add up to a thick seam, take steps to ensure success with needles and possibly a topstitch foot. Read a few articles about sewing a coat- Grainline has a few and I saw a great write up by Jenny of Cashmerette when she sewed hers.
Whatever you do, if you're using a slippery lining like I did, don't use it for the zipper band- You will need a far stabler fabric. I ended up using the floral quilting cotton and it could have also used some interfacing. I sewed this for a friend so I don't have the pattern envelope-just the printed pattern. But I think this detail is not outlined on the envelope and had I not seen someone use a contrast band in the hashtag compilation of amazing coats, it wouldn't have clicked what they wrote on the pattern piece. It holds your zipper, so pick something reliable!
I cover adding the extra 2" to the waist circumference and 3" to hip circumference in the Cutting video. I used 'horse'hair for the interfacing- but you'll still need fusible for the under arm pieces and pocket. (I got around it for the underarm pieces by sewing them to the interlining- but as an afterthought).
My big learning thing: how to press wool. The jacket never looked great because it needed a good pressing! But I worked on this once it was complete and learned how to do it- I recommend doing this before you line it.