Bowline Sweatshirt by Papercut Patterns

Sewing Level: Advanced Beginner 

Fabric: Merino Jersey (lightweight)

I made size and View (if applicable): Medium

My mods: None (but I did adjust something after sewing it-outlined in Notes)

Description:  Pullover sweatshirt with a great asymmetrical neck detail.

Click the images below for videos:  (Both Sewing Videos are complete sew-throughs, the teal one doesn't have a waistband) 


Home Sew Cat Walk:



Notes: For some reason once I started this project I got very excited and then once it was done I was still very interested in refining the fit and how the pleat interacted with the garment. My first one, the pleat detail was pretty fussy and the shirt with bunch up on top of my bust every time I adjusted the pleat. I decided to unpick the last seam of the pleat at the neck end and only through the width of the pleat. Then I adjusted how the pleat was folded. In the instructions, you put the fold of the pleat 1" from the neck line side. I did the reverse putting the 1" toward the shoulder side (btw, this all makes sense if you're sitting there sewing it!). Then I closed the seam back up that I had unpicked- but I had to ease it to fit. This helped the pleat be a lot less fussy on me.I love the way the back looks and how it feels on- it's very comfortable and it doesn't feel asymmetrical or fussy!

Teal Bowline

For my second one, I did some pattern adjustments. I did these mostly out of my desire to figure it out -that's just something that appeals to me. I did two things: I moved the end point of the dart (Point A) toward the pleat 2" (shown in the images). I didn't do anything fancy or too technical here- I literally just redrew the dart legs to the new end point. Once I sewed it I realized I'd have to square the  the shoulder line of the pleat at a right angle to the dart- easy enough! And this change worked brilliantly! The dart no longer shows on the shirt.

   The other change I made was to raise the armhole depth quite a bit- 2.5" and I scooped it away from the sleeve about 1". I didn't change the total circumference- I added it back to the sleeve armhole edge- it still needs this circumference. This prevents the shirt from bunching up on top of my bust- it worked pretty good but I could have raised it a bit less- maybe only 1.75" or 2"