Opium Coat by Deer and Doe Patterns

Sewing Level:Intermediate

Fabric: Brussels Washer Linen with Poly lining (Sponsored by Hart's Fabric!)

I made size and View (if applicable): Size 44

My mods: None

Description: Fully lined swing coat with origami detail welt pockets and a belted closure. 

Click the images below for videos: (yes! I sewed it in Four parts- but you'll see I didn't sew very much in each part- I really chipped away at it at a manageable pace!)




 Notes: Slow sewing this Opium Coat is enjoyable - but it comes together very quick too! This coat was a little large for me but I probably would have selected this size to begin with- now I'd probably size down. (My  measurements are 38" bust and 42" hip) It works GREAT over a sweater though. I'd definitely raise the belt loops up at least 1.5 lengths. The Cat Walk is worth checking out too-and there's two in the same post. If you're considering sewing the button version it'll give you an idea of how it hangs. The swing style is fun!

In Part 1 I focused on the Welt Pockets- I really thought about the process of sewing a welt on the first one- if you still want the tutorial of how to sew this one but want to skip right to it, watch me sew the second one.

Part 2 was about top-stitching the jacket as a design element, noodling over the belt loops, and starting the collar and facings.

Part 3 found us sewing the lining together and working on a few other aspects.

Part 4 finished the jacket! I ended up re-working the collar a bit off stream- I think my jacket was either bigger than the collar and facings or the reverse- but I don't think this was pattern error- I think it's a combination of the linen relaxing, the tracing being a little off and my cutting and sewing adding up to a bit of it. It all comes together in this last part! And it turned out great. The linen is a great choice- just stabilize it after cutting it! Don't wait ;)

After I completed it and the video, I did end up trimming off the bottom of the lining since it hung down a bit too much for my liking- I decided the blousing wasn't intentional and it needed to be removed. This gave me the opportunity to hand-sew the side seam shut after all. It looks great!! Sad to send it off to Hart's :)